Mimi Sheraton, the food writer and restaurant critic who chronicled culinary scenes in New York and around the world that captured the nuances of haute cuisine, died on April 6 in Manhattan. She was 97.
In a six-decade career, Ms. Sheraton was The New York Times’s food and restaurant critic; worked for Vanity Fair, Time, New York, Condé Nast Traveler and other magazines; and wrote 16 books, including restaurant guides, cookbooks, and a memoir. She calculated in 2013 that she had eaten 21,170 restaurant meals professionally in 49 countries.
In her Greenwich Village townhouse, Ms. Sheraton had 2,000 cookbooks and a spacious kitchen overlooking a backyard where she grew herbs. And she read other restaurant critics, with whom she often disagreed.
“Well, whether they’re right or not, which means they agree with me,” she told The Times in 2004, “food writers in general devote too much space to chefs’ philosophies. They’re not Picasso, after all — this is supper. So I don’t want to hear about a chef’s intentions. Call me when it’s good.”
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